Mini Adventure: Graz, Austria
Feeling Kinship With the Panther of Graz
As of late, I’ve been determined to use my KlimaTicket for more than just taking up space in my wallet. So, Emily and I made the journey to Graz one Sunday morning, just to see it.
A Bit of Background on Graz
At around 300,900 residents, Graz is Austria’s second biggest city. Built right on the River Mur, the landscape around Graz consists of the rolling hills typical of Austria. Of course, a city this size has all the typical things: a university, museums, parks, cafés, etc. Yet, Graz seems to lack the name recognition of cities such as Salzburg, Innsbruck, and, of course, Vienna.
As an American who has made Vienna my home for the time being, I assume I am a bit biased. The Viennese love to hate Vienna but refuse to live anywhere else. Perhaps that complex has worn off on me (though my hometown is but a suburban blip on the map compared to any Austrian city).
To an American, Graz is notable for its proximity to Thal, Arnold Schwarzenegger’s hometown. Not that most Americans even know that Arnold Schwarzenegger is Austrian.
Nevertheless, I found myself at Wien Meilding station at 8:40 am, early for a train for once in my life. The last time Emily and I went on an adventure, I missed the train. That mistake would not be made again.
The journey boasted the gorgeous views typical of Austria. Green and hills as far as the eyes can see (at least once you get past the eyesore of Wiener Neustadt).
Graz In All Her Glory (My Shitty Digital Camera)
Unsurprisingly, Graz is a beautiful city. Once Emily and I got out of the Hauptbahnhof grossness (no city is cute around the Hauptbahnhof), the lovely architecture began to reveal itself. Graz is good for wandering, especially around the river and the inner city. Thankfully, we had a tour guide in the form of our friend Tobi, a fellow Fulbrighter.
The feel of Graz is distinct, as well. I’m not surprised that a city so much smaller than Vienna feels far more relaxed, but I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it. Maybe it was the slow pace of a Sonntag, or the sunny day we visited on, but Graz lacked the rush Vienna is infused with.
Duck Coffee Shop
Emily is a sucker for cute marketing. So, the cartoon duck got her.
I don’t like yogurt, but I got yogurt with granola and fruit here. It was good, aside from the yogurt. Sometimes we make decisions we don’t entirely understand.
The Schlossberg
As I climbed up the stairs to the Graz Schlossberg, I couldn’t blame Napoleon for giving up on sieging the fortress that once loomed over the city of Graz.
Can you imagine trying to attack that thing?
A bit of history for y’all: the Graz Schlossberg was never conquered, but when Austria-Hungry signed the Treaty of Schönbrunn with Napoleon, he demanded that the Graz Schlossberg be destroyed (bitter much?). But the townspeople of Graz managed to bribe their way into keeping the bell tower and the clock tower. Now the space on the top of the mountain is a public park, more or less.
It is worth the climb, though it had me sympathizing with the French for the first time in my life.
Burggarten Graz and Graz Cathedral
We took a pleasant walk through the Burggarten. Tobi taught us about “the Panther of Graz,” the strange hybrid animal on the Graz coat of arms. It has a horse’s head, a lion’s mane, a lion’s tail, and furry hind legs and claws. And flames come from every one of its orifices. Ouch!
The Graz Cathedral smells like my childhood. That is to say, it smells like stale communion wafers and incense. Why does every Catholic church smell exactly the same? Did the Pope order it so?
Universität Graz and the Botanical Garden
The area around the University of Graz and the botanical garden is very nice. Very reminiscent of Döbling in Vienna. Tobi showed us where he does his research, and where some of the Uni’s main buildings are.
We weren’t able to go into the greenhouses of the botanical garden, but we did get to see the outside plants. Plenty of Yucca species in the North American section! I felt right at home.
Martin Auer
A Graz specific coffee and bakery chain that Vienna needs stat. Emily and I are now huge fans and advocates for Martin Auer. It’s delicious. And they have free water. You’d be surprised how rare that is in Austria.
Flann O’Brien Irish Pub
Emily was absolutely fixated on this place, for whatever reason.
On the way there, we were caught in a thunderstorm, one of the few thunderstorms I’ve seen since I’ve been in Austria. Something about it was cathartic. I’ve grown weary of the constant drizzle. I missed the emotional, dramatic downpour of a storm.
Flann O’Brien is a standard Irish pub. I ordered a Philly cheesesteak that desperately needed more salt. I mean, what else can you expect from a cheesesteak in Graz, Austria?
Graz is worth seeing. I am grateful to be a Wiener, but being a Grazer wouldn’t be so bad.
Really enjoyed this! I studied in Graz for a year (and later did a Fulbright year in Innsbruck) over a decade ago now. Martin Auer is a gem!